RESTAURANT REVIEW: Chili Willie's

I sank my teeth into the bacon and cheeseburger, enjoying this reunion with an old favorite I had not met in many years.

Chili Willie's Drive Inn at 35420 Marshall Hutts Rd. near the intersection of Paredes Line Road greeted me with a deep-roasted South Texas ambience. A wild turkey flew across the pale green wall towards a set of elk antlers while the feverish hiss of the grill sent waves of flirtatious smells into the dining room.

A man, wearing a shirt with the words "Elect Bob Pinkerton Jr. mayor of South Padre Island," asked his friend, "Do they have good fries here?" - to which his friend answered in the affirmative.

I selected a table near the back, and my waiter quickly brought my menu and took my drink order. They didn't have decaf coffee, and I wasn't in the mood for a Budweiser, Miller, Tecate, Dos Equis XX, or any of the other beers on the menu, so I ordered a tall glass of ice water instead, which he promptly delivered.

The menu gave up a list of South Texas favorites I hadn't savored in quite a while: bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwiches, chicken fried steak, and fish and shrimp plate eagerly tempted me. I was also intrigued by the Polish sausage sandwich and chicken fried pork sandwich.

If I'd visited on a Friday or Saturday night, I could have ordered the special: rib-eye steak with baked potato, salad and Texas toast. However, I was here in the middle of the week, and I finally decided on the bacon cheeseburger that would come with a mound of fried onion rings.

While I waited, a family of five sat in the corner where the children devoured their lunches and the father spoke in a hushed commanding tone. Antlered deer stared from the wall, iron skillets and decorative metal coasters competed for space on a wall, and fans shaped like red chilies whirled from the ceiling.

My burger quickly arrived, a thick and boldly delicious ensemble of cheese, beef, bacon and vegetables all molded into a fine South Texas medley. The onion rings didn't have quite as much flavor as I would have liked, but I hadn't had onion rings in years, and the burger was a tough act to follow. However, I still enjoyed them, and the meal was just the right size to alleviate my hunger and endeared me with plans to return.

I appreciated the personality of the place. A sculpted saguaro cactus rose from a pot, amber lights snaked across a wall, and the dollar bills stuck on and across the bar were scrawled with messages in black marker. One of them read, "Tony Rio Jessy Big Time Fishing."

I think Chili Willie's is a great place to go fishing for a fine meal and good conversation with friends.

Chili Willie's Drive Inn
WHERE: 35420 Marshall Hutts Rd. / at intersection of Paredes Line Road, Arroyo City, Texas 78583
PHONE: 956-748-2444
HOURS: 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Mon. - Thurs. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. Fri. - Sat. 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Sun.
PAYMENT: Checks, no credit cards
COST: $ Most meals are under $10
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE: Yes
RATING: One a scale of 1 - 5 stars