RESTAURANT REVIEW: La Marina

Walking into La Marina is like walking into a New England ice fishing lodge.

Everywhere the eye can see there is wood- tree trunks, chopped into thin disks fill one wall; plywood-like circles hang from the ceiling; even the bar is made of wood. Although I couldn't help but think how many trees had died to decorate the restaurant, the wood works well with the tan and turquoise walls and creates a cohesive theme that holds throughout the restaurant.  The circles on the ceiling detracted from the effect, but maybe they were a work in progress.

The restaurant owners may have spent so much time and energy creating ambiance they forgot that people visit restaurants for the food. Our hostess explained profusely about the difficult-to-read menu and then offered to explain anything we couldn't read because of the tiny print (this problem has subsequently been resolved.)

We started our meal with coconut shrimp, which the menu described as shrimp breaded with coconut flakes and a sweet tropical sauce ($5.29). The problem was the sauce was more smoky than sweet. It had an odd spicy, smoky, bitter, sweet taste that I didn't care for. I love coconut shrimp - one of the best versions of the dish I've ever had was at 1904 (formerly located where Blue Agave is now). That restaurant had succulent shrimp and a sweet raspberry sauce. La Marina's version featured shrimp that seemed to have been under the heat lamp for too long and a sauce that had an identity crisis.

I ordered the spanish filet, which featured white fish served with a white wine garlic pepper sauce and was topped with shrimp and fried mushrooms ($12.99). I found the dish overly salty. The dish featured lots of garlic but it was overpowered by the salt. Also the vegetable that accompanied the plate alternated between being over-cooked and raw. I will say that the dish had a very nice presentation but I wouldn't suggest people order it.

For me eating at La Marina was a frustrating experience, because when we walked in the restaurant was just about empty - and our waiter did the absolute minimum service-wise. He didn't refill drinks, didn't really check on us and seemed generally annoyed that we were there. But about half-way through our meal, two elderly couples walked in and he and the hostess bent over backward to make them happy. It's a personal pet peeve, but when I worked in and owned a restaurant, I treated every customer well. Sure, you have regulars whom you might chat with or hang out - but you never know who is sitting at your table. It may just be a restaurant reviewer, or a great tipper.

I won't be going back to La Marina. It's not a horrible restaurant, the food isn't awful, but I didn't feel welcome or happy there. In reality the check couldn't have come fast enough.

LA MARINA

• 7001 North 10^th Street, Suite A, McAllen
• 956-688-6375
• Ambiance: 4 STARS
• Food: 2 STARS
• Service: 2 ½ STARS
• Overall: 3 ½ STARS

Paige Lauren Deiner covers features and entertainment for The Monitor. You can reach her at (956) 683-4425. You can reach her at (956) 683-4425.

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